From a maintenance point of view, the 350cc Bullet has a few areas where some measure of expertise is required to ensure optimum performance, the most important being the contact breaker system. The contact breaker points are responsible, to some extent, for the quality of spark which ignites the compressed fuel/air mixture and also for determining the precise time at which the spark occurs, in relation to the piston's position. The points are opened and shut by a cam.

Without going into how a spark is produced, let's just say that during the period that the points are shut, primary current from the battery flows into the hi-tension coil and at the time the points snap open, hi-tension current is induced in the coil and a spark is produced at the plug. If the points are dirty or corroded, primary current flow will be inhibited and the coil will not be charged enough to produce a spark of the required intensity. If, for any reason, the points do not open cleanly and close as abruptly as possible then too intensity will suffer. If they do not open at the pre-determined time, the engine will not deliver the performance that it is designed to. If the spark is advanced (early), the engine will knock or ping and could even overheat if the situation is allowed to persist. If the timing is retarded (late), the engine will be sluggish and deliver poor fuel economy. So keep the points clean and free of corrosion.

Mild cases of pitting on the points can be dressed with a fine file and finally polished with the finest grade of emery paper that you can lay your hands on. Following this, they should always be cleaned off with acetone to remove any emery dust that may still be there. We recommend acetone because it is the only substance readily available reputed to evaporate without leaving behind any residue. Whatever you use, make sure you wipe off finally with a dry clean cloth to prevent a fire hazard.

Spin the engine to have the fibre heel attached to the moving point resting on the tallest part of the cam. A feeler gauge is used to adjust the gap to .012"-.014". Bring the engine to have the piston positioned to 1/32" before TDC (top dead centre) on the compression stroke (both valves should be shut). This is best done by removing the spark plug and fitting a height gauge in its place. Check and adjust the points to just open at this point. The often used method to determine when the points open is to trap a piece of fine tissue paper between the two points and maintain a light pull on the paper as you gently turn the engine in its right direction of revolution and stop when the paper releases. The timing is set with the system fully retarded and advanced automatically by centrifugally activated weights when the engine is running.

Inspection and adjustment of the valve clearances on the Bullet are set with the piston at TDC on the compression stroke through a rectangular opening at the base of the cylinder block on the right-hand side. The settings are correct if both pushrods are free to rotate without any perceptible up and down play. In our experience we have had very good results by having the inlet pushrod free to rotate but requiring a little more pressure than the exhaust which should be freer. Good feel acquired through experience is the key to getting it right.

Many Bullets are prone to emitting a sound very much like a sneeze whenever the throttle was opened smartly from just off idle. A richer than necessary pilot jet setting on the carburettor sometimes effects a cure.

A 100 per cent and permanent solution is to file a tiny amount from the bottom of the carburettor slide (not the cutaway portion). The exact amount varies from bike to bike and this is not to be undertaken by anyone who does not possess the necessary skills and experience to handle such a job. Apart from this, the Bullet requires the kind of looking after that any motorcycle needs. Oil and oil filter changes, air filter replacement or cleaning, rear chain cleaning, lubricating and adjusting.

Cleaning the chain should be done after a small run, but take care, the chain gets hot. It's easier to get the muck off when it is hot. Lubricate with a thick oil directed on to the row of links on the bottom run and not on the rollers. Adjust the chain to about half-inch slack checked on the bottom run with the rider sitting on the bike. Check the battery often for fluid and tightness of terminals and connectors. Keep the terminals coated with white vaseline.

One last bit of advice - find the time often to tighten every nut and screw that you can see on the chassis and the engine. The reward will be in oil tightness and a good chance of no bits and pieces falling off on the road. Follow these tips and you will be rewarded with a long-lived thumper that can ride, in a regal manner, over both rough and smooth.